Got a sea ledge or a remote kloof packed with unmolested fish that you want to check out? Before you go swinging off cliffs like Alex Honnold meets Tarzan, you might want to check if you have the skills, stomach, and clobber to get both in and out. We asked Roald Paul – a competition fly angler with the Gauteng North Fly Fishing Association who also happens to work for South Africa’s premier climbing gyms, City Rock (cityrock.co.za) – for advice. This accompanies Jimmy Eagleton’s “Cliffhangers” feature in issue 40.

Roald says, “Combining climbing and fly fishing can open a whole new world of unexplored waters that were previously unfishable. Depending on the environment, it might mean a scramble down to your spot in approach shoes with your gear strapped to your back. However, should this be a technical or overhanging wall, you will be better off abseiling into the area.” 

How to prepare for rock climbing and fly fishing

“If you plan on accessing a cliff face, make sure you have a head for heights. Most people don’t know how they will react until they are exposed to a 15-30m sheer drop and vertigo kicks in. Go to a climbing gym and see how it feels to be 15m off the ground. Climbing regularly will also get you physically and mentally fit and is a fun way to exercise.”   

Safety

“The most important part of climbing or rope access is to ensure that you’re fully prepared and know what you are getting yourself into. You should make sure that you received the correct training by attending an abseiling course or taking someone with you who is experienced in this field. Being outdoors, whether that be fly fishing, climbing, or hiking, means there is inherent risk and danger involved. Make sure you tell someone where you’re going and have a backup plan should things go pear-shaped. You should have with you a first aid kit, space blanket, headlamp, hard shell helmet, and a whistle for drawing attention.” 

Backpack

“You will want to pack all your rods and gear away before you start your scramble or abseil down. This will free up your hands and make your life a lot easier. Osprey backpacks have a lifetime warranty and are therefore a good investment. You will ideally want a 40 to 65-litre backpack such as an Osprey Aether or Kestrel that can take heavy loads, are water resistant, and will fit all your gear. Combining this with a few dry bags to keep your electronics safe is the preferred option.”

Scrambling

“The easiest method, which requires almost no gear, is to scramble down to your spot using your hands and feet. All that you need is a good pair of approach shoes, a head for heights, and to be sure-footed. However, should the terrain be technical, you might have to abseil into the area especially if you have a heavy pack, rod tubes, net, and other specialised gear that you want to keep safe.” 

Abseiling 

“The easiest way to access a cliff face or gully would be to abseil into the area using a single-line rope. This means you’d need to rig up an anchor point using a solid rock, tree or, alternatively, more specialised gear such as camp and hexes. It’s important that you set up a solid anchor point using accessory cords or slings in combination with locking carabiners. This will protect your rope as well as the tree you intend to use.”

Rope 

“For abseiling, you will need a single-line static rope such as the Beal Intervention. It’s 10.5-11mm and ideal for wet and dry conditions. Generally, a rope in 40-80m will get you down most places. But remember that the longer the rope, the heavier it will be. You can use a Petzl GriGri belay device in dry conditions and a figure-eight descender for wet conditions. This in combination with a Prusik knot for backup will mean that you can use your hands freely when fishing from a cliff and still be attached to the rope.”

Harness

“You will want a comfortable sitting harness that will be durable and offer you support. There are plenty of options available, but the Black Diamond Momentum is a good harness that will meet these requirements.” 

Shoes 

“No need for specialised climbing shoes, however a good pair of approach shoes is recommended. These will make hiking into your spot easy and give you all the grip you need should you have to scramble or climb out of the location. The La Sportiva TX4 is the ideal shoe for technical approaches. Made from leather and Gore-Tex it’s comfortable, water resistant, has lots of grip, and will protect your feet. Alternatively, a good hiking boot with a Vibram rubber sole would offer similar protection and grip.”

Getting back out 

“This is where the hard, physical work really begins. It’s normally easier to climb up than down so, if you abseiled in, you might be able to see an easy scramble available and can simply climb out of your area and retrieve your rope. However, should this not be an option, you will have to use your rope to ascend the rock face using a Petzl Ascender or ‘jumaring’ device in combination with a long sling. Combining this with your GriGri you can then ascend the rock face and self-belay out of the location.” 

Read the rest of our piece on rock climbing and fly fishing in The Mission Issue 40 below. Free.