Some places change you forever, because what you experienced there is so transformative your memory plays the highlights on an infinite loop calling you back till the end of your days. For guide and photographer Álvaro G Santillán that place is New Zealand, and that thing is South Island fly fishing. As featured on the cover ofThe Mission Issue 48 (Nov/Dec 24).

Often, the achievement of a dream, of a goal in life, marks a turning point. Sometimes, even a point of no return. I cannot deny that the experiences New Zealand has given me have changed me forever, a fisherman and as a person.

After all, when you’ve spent 20 years imagining yourself there, only two things can be expected: either the place doesn’t live up to expectations, which happens more often on fishing trips than we might imagine (possibly due to the high expectations we set for ourselves), or the experience itself is of such a magnitude that you don’t return the same as you were when you embarked on your journey.

“The fish are no more than an excuse to travel to and get lost in some of the most beautiful landscapes on our planet.”

Few things are as personal, unique, and diverse as dreams. They come in all colours and shapes. In general, in fishing we all tend to dream about the same thing: big fish in abundance, heart-pounding fights… You know what I mean. However, I find richness in the nuances, in the how, in what surrounds those fish. Those ingredients are, in my opinion, what make the difference between a good dish and a delicacy. The fish are no more than an excuse to travel to and get lost in some of the most beautiful landscapes on our planet. Isn’t that so?

New Zealand is a land rich in those nuances: landscapes, nature, people… and of course, fish. Yes, big ones too, but we’ll get to that later. I invite you to join me in my dreams, to explore the South Island and experience through these lines the small things along the way that captivated me forever. We may not share a taste for our dream ingredients, but if there’s one thing I’m sure of, it’s that in New Zealand and its infinite network of rivers and valleys, there’s a dream for you too.

South Island fly fishing, the catalogue of the perfect waters

The trout was introduced into New Zealand waters back in 1867, from Tasmania, where it had been introduced a few years earlier and where it had travelled to from the British Isles. Nearly two centuries later, New Zealand has become one of the world’s premier fishing destinations. Its unique geography, abundance of water, and temperate climate are joined by other no less important factors, such as a truly low population density and a great respect for nature and outdoor activities, offering fly fishers from around the world a sort of theme park for trout fishing. Its two main islands, separated by the Cook Strait and spanning about 1 600km from north to south, offer a variety of river ecosystems that can only be described as infinite.

“In a country with so many trout waters, and where fishing untouched waters is key to a successful day, deep respect for fellow anglers prevails.”

And there is no scenario that doesn’t find its perfect expression among New Zealand’s catalogue of waters. What motivates you? A mountain river? We have it. A plain river with riparian trees? No problem. A river of blue waters in the middle of a tropical jungle? Of course. Chalk streams? Take your pick. Shallow lakes where you can sight fish? Please…

“Densities per kilometre are not high. The fish are large, and the conditions are usually demanding.”

New Zealand’s peculiar geography, with mountains exceeding 3 700m in altitude, means that the country not only boasts an immense variety of landscapes but also climates, which have shaped the character of its water bodies and provide us with the opportunity to enjoy all kinds of scenarios in a relatively small territory. A whole universe to explore. In general terms, New Zealand is reputed to be a demanding destination with few fish. And, at least on the South Island, if we generalise, it lives up to its reputation. Densities per kilometre are not high. The fish are large, and the conditions are usually demanding.

We are dealing with wild fish, perfectly adapted and aware of their environment, with an extraordinary ability to detect any foreign element. A glimmer, a noise, a false move… game over. A bad presentation, a false cast too close, a drag… sorry, try the next one. The conditions often favour them. We will face adverse weather conditions and wind that will test our casting technique. We will face physical exhaustion. Getting out of the car to stalk a fish is not the same as when you’ve walked 15km with a heavy backpack on your back. And we will have to be capable of handling fish much larger than usual. If we emerge unscathed from all this, we may manage to avoid blanking regularly. And as the local guide Chris Dore told us: Sometimes that is what the game is about.

Solitude, adventure, and freedom

There are still places in the world where you can get lost with a rod in hand and not see anyone for days. New Zealand is full of them. The price to pay – there is always one – is to be willing to accept certain risks and discomforts.

“When in doubt, cast. Sometimes rocks or spots move and yield rewards.”

Read the rest of this South Island fly fishing story in The Mission Issue 48 for free below.

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