With stillwaters, you can stay as shallow or dive as deep as you like. Exploring the “Trout Triangle”, Herman Botes peels back the layers on the strategies and allure of stillwater trout fishing.

For most South African fly fishers, the initial phase of their journey to “the land of the lost” involved a bout of stillwater trout fishing. Some move quickly onto other facets of fly fishing which grab their fascination. Moving water eventually hypnotized me, but I hung around stillwaters long enough to be cast under its spell permanently.  I’ve literally studied as much on the ever changing subject as possible and pursued trout from tiny put-and-take stew ponds to great expanses of water where float tubes are essential. I’ve bled on the lakes of the Western Cape, Lakies in particular, persevered and progressed on an array of Mpumalanga waters and found nirvana on some notorious Natal Midlands lakes.

Still there’s a bucket list as long as my arm of trophy Eastern Cape, Underberg and Kamberg lakes to get to. I guess my pursuit of stillwater trout is terminal. I’m aware of a group of anglers, freaks really, who make it their sole mission to hunt “Hog Johnson”. They endure some of nastiest conditions mother nature can dish out in some seriously isolated places, persisting despite discomfort and challenging (aka crap) fishing. But, when they eventually hit paydirt and smile back at me from a photograph while hoisting the mother of all trout from the water and I’m right back where it all started – dreaming of trout as long as my arm. And to think they are right here, in good ol’ SA. Right under our noses. 

Mpumalanga is not as highly regarded as some regions in the country when it comes to stillwater trout. You’re not going to go hunting for double-digit fish in the Dullstroom district. But that doesn’t mean there’s not some fine stillwater trouting to be had. I cut my teeth fishing for trout in this region and it’s around here that I have spent many long days learning the complexities of stillwater fly fishing.

Autumn is arguably the best time of year to hunt for trout in the ponds, dams and lakes scattered around the “Trout Triangle” (Machadodorp, Waterval Boven and Dullies) of Mpumalanga. It’s the reason why I’ve hooked up with the crew from Mavungana Flyfishing for a day of stillwater trouting.

It’s a lovely fresh autumn morning, with a nip in the air, when I pop into the Mavungana Flyfishing shop to meet up with our guide, Collen Tshabangu, who’s going to take us around for the day. The shop has been a Dullstroom landmark ever since I started coming here to fish. Jonathan Boulton and his staff are a fly fishing institution in these parts. Their passion for fly fishing is evident the moment you put foot in the cosy shop. The space is crammed with all things fly fishing. Photographs of catches from across the globe cover the walls.

As a fly-fishing junkie I feel right at home warming myself in front of the fireplace, coffee in hand. Jonathan together with guides John Thoabala and Collen have fished this region extensively for years and can probably help you out with any kind of fly fishing itch you need to scratch.

I meet Collen, a huge, laidback dude. I guess being a fishing guide in the heart of trout country brings a familiarity that makes you almost blasé about the prospect of a day out fishing fine stillwaters. Unlike me, who can hardly contain my excitement as I embark on my first foray of stillwater trout fishing for the year. We load up and head out to an old established syndicate water managed by the Mavungana crew. On the way to the lake, Collen mentions that one of his favourite fly patterns is a Papa Roach (Ed: invented by the writer). I like this guy already. 

We pull up next to a beautiful lake in the still gloom of dawn. Fish are rolling on its flat silver surface. A new lake always fills you with anticipation, especially if there’s talk of big fish. I tackle up almost feverishly, keeping one eye on the margins where fish are moving over the weeded shallows, while formulating some plan of attack. Fishing stillwaters is as much a mental exercise as river fishing is.

For starters you have to read your piece of water and, trust me, this can take a few outings on some lakes. Usually the ones that end up full of surprises are the ones that draw you back, because you always sense that you’ve missed something. Then there’s understanding what’s on the menu and what the preferred fish food to imitatemight be. For this particular spot, Collen mentioned there were lots of vlei kurper in the margins so I opt for an intermediate line and a Zonker fished fast. I like the idea of this approach because it’ll help me unload some of the excitement that’s been building up. 

Fish are still showing here and there as I send long casts over the calm surface, but it’s almost too calm and with the first rays of sunlight now on the water I sense the odds are stacked against us. Stillwater trout love going about their business without being detected and flat, calm, bright light definitely puts them on the defensive. I fear we’ve missed the morning frenzy. Spotting caddis hatching in the margins, I switch to a second rod loaded with a floating line and a team of small nymphs. Having lines with different sink rates is important if you take stillwaters seriously. I carry four lines and some poly-leaders to cover my bases, but guys who are absolutely obsessed with stillwater fishing can carry as many as eight to 10 lines. 

Take my friend Gijs for instance:

“I’m a complete ‘line nut’ when it comes to stillwaters. I like to have every possible line at my disposal to present my flies to trout at whichever level they are holding. In terms of stock-standard fishing, I have a Rio Gold Floater and Airflo Sixth Sense lines in a slow inter, fast inter, Di3, Di5, Di7. Although when I’m not sure where the fish are, I will fish with Airflo Di3 and Di5 sweep lines to search different levels effectively. When I’m stuck on the bank, I fish Airflo 40+ lines in Di3 and Di5. When things get a little crazy I fish an Airflo Sixth Sense Di8, often with three boobies to search for the fish that are stuck on the bottom. Lastly, I have an Airflo 6ft fast inter midge tip to fish buzzers at deeper levels than what my floating line will allow me. That’s 12 lines, and I’m not happy with that, I still want a 40+ Di7, fast inter and floater. Probably a few more one day.”

Collen obviously knows this water so when he later declares that the fishing is tough, after we only managed to extract two fish and a handful of takes, I don’t feel that defeated. Over the years I’ve experienced the sense of defeat many times. It comes with the territory. I think it is also one of the reasons I’m so drawn to stillwaters. Afterwards you analyse, re-think, re-strategise and become super-keen for a do-over. God forbid you fail again.

The guys suggest a change of venue and a bite to eat. On the way out we decide to make a few casts in the small water below the lake. Its surface is ruffled every now and then, but there are no fish showing. I’m making some half-hearted casts, not really knowing where to start. Experienced anglers each develop their own favourite go-to strategy for times just like this. Being a bit of a “loskop”, I tend to struggle to make up my mind. A dude who fishesMpumalanga stillwaters a lot and is very good at it is Daniel Factor. His favourite prospecting approach? 

“A floater with a team of buzzers and/or small nymphs on a long leader – Mpumalanga waters in general are not that deep.”

Meanwhile, Collen’s casting a long line off the wall. It’s a favourite tactic that I associate with the “old guard”. But make no mistake, the Walkers Killer on a sinking line, fished slow and deep off the wall can be deadly at times. Collen’s got his own version: “Papa Roach on a sinking line, fished fast and deep off the wall.” He’s immediately into fish. I follow his cue even though stripping a Roach doesn’t sit well with me. Collen’s known as “Mr Papa Roach”in these parts and he sure knows how to wield this pattern in a whole bunch of ways. At least it’s getting me into fish. I soon change to a team of flies that’s more in line with pulling for stockies. It consists of a garish mix of a small bright attractor, a subtle nymph on a middle dropper and a booby on point to yo-yo the lot and create a reaction bite, should it be required. I feel more bona fide stripping this rig and the fish respond as expected. Still, Collen continues to catch a heap more fish doing things his way. Confidence is a big part of stillwater success and that comes from spending a lot of hours on the water. Collen’s got 20 years of it, and it shows.

After a quick stop and refuel, we find ourselves on another venue managed by Mavungana, situated in a stunning valley. Some of the guys decide to go looking for big fish, rumoured to be in the two bigger waters, while I’m captivated by a crystal clear pond, its surface sparkling in the light breeze. There are hoppers flipping in the tall grassy edges. Dragons and damsels are on the wing and caddis flitter over its weedy margins. A fish rises close to the strong inlet. The setup is so perfect you almost want to just sit back a while and take it all in. Almost. 

I rig up fast with only a floater and a long leader. It’s the kind of water where you can just fish off the top of your head. The crystal clear water suggests a dry and dropper setup of some sorts. I’m still considering options when Collen goes tight to a solid fish after flipping a hopper to the riser at the inlet. He goes about the fish fighting business in his laidback manner while I squirrel around excitedly netting his fish.

Inspired by Mr Papa Roach, I decide to buck the obvious choice and instead cast a Roach. I straighten the line for contact and give the pattern time to settle before starting a slow retrieve. On stillwaters, fishing slow can be the quickest way to success. Someone once wrote that if you think you are retrieving real slow, slow it down even more. At times this can become an internal battle, but this is where the confidence thing comes in.

A few casts later my patience is rewarded as the leader draws under while I wait for the fly to settle. I’m caught off guard and miss the strike. I could blame it on my beautiful surroundings. Continuing to keep my fly in the zone, I just stay in touch and slowly move the Roach. Then the line goes solid. That moment is special, ask any keen stillwater angler. There’s even a saying for it: “the tug is the drug”. This fish is hot. First it comes straight at me, in the dam corner, and then bolts all along the dam wall, ripping line off my reel. I’m forced to run after it, rod in the air while recovering backing at the same time. As I catch up to it, trying to manage the situation, knowing the 5X tippet isn’t going to allow any heavy handedness, the fish makes a few jumps. It’s a pretty hen in superb condition. I watch it slowly blend into the underwater world as it drifts away upon release. 

Bolstered by my catch, I work my way towards the back end of the pond where an old stream channel enters the pond. Stillwater trout cruise a lot while on the prod and edges pretty much map out the routes they follow. Things like the edges of weed beds, contour edges, drop-offs, old river channels, reed edges, ripple lines, shade lines and wind lanes. Once you get a grip on locating fish, strategising revolves around finding the correct depth, the correct retrieve and finally the correct fly pattern. At one point I cast to a fish moving close to the bank. I keep the fly in the zone for as long as possible, confident that surely it fish must have spotted my big dragon imitation. As I start to reach the end of my retrieve, I search for my pattern in the underwater world. I often watch my patterns at the end of the retrieve to see how they react to different retrieves. As I find the pattern, the silhouette of a fish phantoms into view. I give the Papa Roach a small twitch, just to make sure the fish is aware, and let it sit. The fish slowly cruises up to the suspended dragon and simply winks as it inhales the fly. I set the hook as it turns. 

THE PAPA ROACH

The whole scene brings satisfying fulfillment of the visions I had while designing the Papa Roach. It’s a pattern that’s done well in the South African stillwater scene and below I include the recipe and a few pointers if you wish to tie the fly yourself, otherwise clcik here for the full step-by-step.

Materials:

• Hook – #6 wet fly / 1x short hook
• Thread – Danville 70
• Abdomen – Grizzly Zonker
• Thorax/Heart – long-fibred dubbing blend with UV Ice dub teased out
• Wingcase – 2 x 2 Mallard flank / partridge feathers
• Eyes – Large black plastic bead chain
• Legs – Flexifloss or Spanflex
• Head – Dubbing to match abdomen

TIPS FOR TYING THE PAPA ROACH

• 1. Use large black plastic bead chain eyes – the big head is 1/5 of total body length.
• 2. Use standard wet or 1x short #6 hook to tie the pattern – the fly is basically an extended body pattern, with the hook acting as a keel. Don’t worry about short takes – the fly is not meant to be stripped.
• 3. The thorax/wing case feathers must be tied in a tent-like style that sheaths and controls the zonker fur strip – this is the unique style and tying step that sets the pattern apart.
• 4. All the material and parts (with the exception of the head’s dubbing) are placed above the hook shank, so the shank forms the flat base of the fly.
• 5. Select a Grizzly Zonker strip (containing guard hairs) with short fur fibres – remember this is your abdomen already done and dusted.
• 6. Always fish this pattern connected with a loop knot to the tippet and a slow retrieve.
• 7. Remember this pattern looks a whole lot better suspended in the water than in your vise.

More fish fall to the charms of the Roach, all in superb condition, heavy inky spots on their deep olive dorsals with rich pink flanks. You almost expect them to be this good-looking because they come out of this jewel of a pond with its peaceful vista. This time of the year, Dullstroom is as pretty as a picture, with autumn colours decorating the country side. 

The “big fish search party” re-joins us and we excitedly exchange fishy tales while moving to some water further up the valley. They are happy with their success even though “Hog Johnson” eluded them. The next water is typical of many waters in the region; long established with a very natural feel. By now there’s a nice ripple from the late afternoon breeze with some clouds intermittently casting some shade. Fish are rising purposefully in the ripple. I’m pretty sure they are taking terrestrials and when a fish takes my hopper close to the bank, I know we’re in for some dry-fly action. The water in this dam is gin clear and after some refusals, I reconsider my pattern selection. In Mpumalanga pretty much all the stillwater fishing is done to stocked fish. But this doesn’t mean they are pushovers. Established fish like the ones we’re casting to can be a challenge. I move to the downstream bank where fish are patrolling the weed edge picking terrestrials out of the accumulated surface debris. I decide on a small, dark F-fly. CDC is definitely a winner on stillwaters, where fish can view a fly at their leisure. Just ask the guys that fish Sterkies a lot.

Duping fish on small dry flies is a fitting way to end the day. Even after you’ve had a really tough day on a stillwater, there’s always the prospect of the evening rise. Sometimes it can be spectacular with fast-paced action and other times the water remains as still and perplexing asit’s been all day. But today is not one of those. As I look up the valley, the tapestry of yellows, ochres and reds are intensified by the last rays of sunlight. There’s an exited banter as we break down and pack away gear while sipping cold beer. I can feel the cold air folding in around us as the sun winks away behind the horizon. Standing around in the stillness of the cold dusk, I’m already analysing, re-thinking and re-strategising my next do-over. 

Trout season’s here.

Herman’s stillwater trout article featured in Tags dullstroom, Herman Botes, Papa Roach, stillwater, stillwater flies, trout fishing